Savvy Table

Orange Chocolate Chunk Shortbread and The Great Food Blogger Cookie Swap 2012

by Ashley on December 12, 2012

There are few things I do without deliberation. In fact, taking ~~more~~ risks is on my New Year resolutions list. But, being that it is still December, I don’t feel any guilt in sharing how I came to decide upon a cookie for The Great Food Blogger Cookie Swap 2012. Besides, what good is a resolution if you start it before the New Year, anyway?

My qualifications that make a cookie worthy of the task are pretty simple and haven’t changed much from last year: I want a cookie that is both durable enough to hold up on its parceled journey and whose moistness or flavor gets better after a few days. That way the recipient will receive them at the peak of their deliciousness. After all, no one likes a crumbled or dry cookie, though there are worse things in life.

Shortbread is known for keeping well so I decided to start there, but I wanted to add a festive quality. The flavors of orange and chocolate go hand in hand with Christmas as they remind me of the chocolate oranges Santa used to leave in my stocking. Santa – is it too late to add one small request to my Christmas list this year?

When I found this recipe I knew I had a winner. So whether you’re looking for bragging rights at your next holiday party or simply want a good standby to leave with milk for Santa on Christmas Eve, this cookie is up for the job.

Orange Chocolate Chunk Shortbread

Adapted slightly from Bon Appétit

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons (packed) grated orange peel
1/2 teaspoon orange extract
1 large egg yolk
3 tablespoons whipping cream
8 ounces dark chocolate, roughly chopped into small chunks (I used a Ghirardelli 70% cocoa bar)

Position rack in center of oven; preheat to 350°F. Butter and flour large baking sheet (I used a jellyroll pan with a Silpat, which worked well).

Whisk first 3 ingredients in medium bowl. Beat butter, sugar, orange peel, and orange extract in large bowl until fluffy. Beat in yolk, then cream. Add flour mixture; beat until dough comes together in moist clumps. Stir in chocolate chips.

The recipe calls for dropping the dough out by tablespoonfuls, but I took a different route to ensure perfectly shaped cookies. Here’s how to do it: Lay out a sheet of plastic wrap. Divide the dough into two to three roughly shaped logs and place on the plastic wrap. Roll the dough up in the plastic wrap and smooth it out using your thumb and index finger as if you were making an “Okay” sign. You can also roll it out on the countertop. I did a little of both.

Once you’ve got the dough in plastic-wrapped logs, put them in the fridge for at least twenty minutes to chill. Theoretically you could leave the dough at this stage for a day or two, if making in advance, but goodness help you muster up the willpower to not nibble off little pieces of the dough.

Once the dough is adequately chilled, slice the logs into ½ inch rounds. Place them on the cookie sheet about ¾ inch apart (they do not spread). Bake until golden, about 18 minutes. Transfer to rack; cool.

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New York City Soda Ban Vote

by Ashley on September 13, 2012

Today is the day food policy wonks have been waiting for. Earlier this year, in an effort to crack down on the obesity epidemic, New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg proposed a ban on large sodas and sugary bottled and fountain drinks over sixteen ounces as part of his larger obesity-fighting plan. The average sixteen-ounce soda contains two hundred calories, roughly ten percent of the standard two-thousand calories per day model. If you upgrade your drink to the forty-two-ounce version available at Burger King, you’re looking at five hundred and twenty-five calories or twenty-six percent of your daily recommended amount.

The proposal received both praise (public health community, political officials, and celebrity chef Jamie Oliver) and condemnation (soft drink industry, their advocacy groups, and owners of theaters, restaurants and sports arenas) across the country. Needless to say, the proposed ban created a big wave. Shortly after it was announced, a coalition of individuals, businesses, and community organizations founded the New Yorkers for Beverage Choices to oppose the ban and rally support.

(Image courtesy of Politicker.com)

Lisa M. Powell, PHD, Senior Research Scientist for the Institute for Health Research and Policy, naturally supports the ban arguing that, “Sugary drinks add empty calories to the American diet. Mayor Bloomberg’s policy initiative to limit serving sizes of sugary drinks takes an important step forward toward the public health aim of reducing sugar intake and related obesity prevalence. Larger serving sizes are often offered with quantity discounts. This measure will help to eliminate these types of options which have previously incentivized people to consume excess quantities of sugar-sweetened beverages. This effort also will help society reclaim from industry healthier norms with respect to portion sizes.”

Meanwhile, Andrew Moesel, spokesperson for the New York Sate Restaurant Association and member of the New Yorkers for Beverage Choices coalition, is more concerned with the effects of the ban on local business. “Proposals like the soda ban discourage new business and hurt our reputation as the dining capital of the world. Reducing obesity is an important goal, but we want to partner with government to come up with effective ways to confront the problem. What we don’t need is more burdensome regulation making it harder for businesses to function and skewing the competitive landscape.”

Opinions among New Yorkers were divided as well, though according to a New York Times Poll in August, 60% of New Yorkers think the ban is a bad idea. Is the proposed ban an infringement on personal liberty or an innovative way to promote healthy eating choices in efforts make a dent in the obesity epidemic? In a city where more than half the citizens are either overweight (34%) or obese (22%), it is clear something needs to be done in the fight to make Americans healthier.

In response to the outrage over the proposal, the discussion moved to the NYC Board of Health for a vote. Health officials announced today their approval of the Bloomberg’s proposal and the restriction could go into effect as early as March of next year. The ban does not include fruit juices, dairy-based drinks, zero-calorie or diet drinks, or alcoholic beverages. Establishments that fall under the Board of Health’s jurisdiction include restaurants, fast food chains, delis, movie theaters, sports venues and street cars. For now, convenience and grocery stores are exempt, meaning those popular 32-oz Polar Pop drinks from Circle K costing only 89 cents are still widely available. Especially in large cities, such as New York, convenience stores are being treated more like grocery stores due to the growth of food deserts across the country.

Despite the ban’s approval, those in opposition aren’t giving up yet. When asked for a comment to the vote, Eliot Hoff, spokesman for New Yorkers for Beverage Choices, responded, “This is not the end. We are exploring legal options, and all other avenues available to us. We will continue to voice our opposition to this ban and fight for the right of New Yorkers to make their own choices. And we will stand with the business owners who will be hurt by these arbitrary limitations.”

What are your opinions towards the ban? Do you agree it is a necessary step in the fight against obesity, which arguably adds $190 billion additional annual spending in health care costs? Or do you oppose the ban because it allows the government to overstep the boundaries of personal freedom for Americans to make their own choices? Wherever you stance may be, I’d love for you to join the conversation.

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A Natural Pairing: Food and Diplomacy

by Ashley on September 11, 2012

James Beard, the renowned cookbook author, teacher, and champion of the American cuisine, once said, “Food is our common ground, a universal experience.” It is fitting then, that nearly thirty years after his death, the Beard Foundation would partner with the U.S. Department of State to sponsor a new diplomatic program called Chef Corps. On Friday, September 7th, in the Benjamin Franklin Room at the State Department, 80 chefs across the country were tapped to serve their country using their expertise in the kitchen (see a picture here). According to the State Department, these men and women will be responsible for preparing meals for visiting dignitaries as well as participating in public diplomacy programs both at home and abroad.

Led by Ambassador and U.S. Chief of Protocol, Capricia Penavic Marshall, Chef Corps is a shining example of how diplomacy isn’t confined to the bargaining table. “By showcasing the best of American cuisine and creativity, we can show our guests a bit about ourselves,” Marshall said. “Likewise, by incorporating elements of our visitor’s culture, we can demonstrate respect and a desire to connect and engage.” Visiting dignitaries are welcomed with light refreshment made with flavors from their home country (think cardamom for Indian visitors, for example) as well as a sampling of American cookies (snickerdoodles, s’mores bars, oatmeal, and chocolate chip were the cookies that made the cut, in case you were interested), all courtesy from the Office of the Chief of Protocol to make them feel welcome and their stay more enjoyable.

Why is this program notable? The simple answer is that the concept of food is universal and one which resonates with everyone. All people are raised with certain flavors, ingredients, and techniques, which in turn develop into the tastes of that which is familiar, of that which we identify with home. The present age of economic crises, political uprisings, and inter-state struggles over natural resources, international relations across the world are strained at best. Therefore, it is in our best interest to use every tool available in our efforts to connect and cooperate with foreign states.

What other doors can the thoughtful use of food open? According to Jose Andres, a well-known chef in the Washington area who prepared the meal for the 50th anniversary of the department’s Diplomatic Reception Rooms (and naturally one of the new recruits in the Chef Corps), food can send a message. It is a way for the U.S. to show the world that America “is more than just hot dogs and burgers.” For example, he used Louisiana Gulf shrimp to display White House support for the fisherman still recovering from the damage from Hurricane Katrina.

A program of this kind is where the country has been moving since the Clinton administration, when as First Lady, Hilary Clinton began experimenting with food to bolster diplomatic efforts. With Michelle Obama’s Let’s Move program, the White House organic garden, and even the recent release of the White House home-brewed ale recipes, the country is making an earnest intention to highlight the importance of food in our daily lives. It will be exciting to watch how the efforts of the Chef Corps will influence international cooperation and well-being in the coming months.

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Watermelon Sorbet

by Ashley on September 7, 2012

We still have a few weeks left of summer, but already I have begun to notice small tints of red on the tips of leaves and the days aren’t quite as hot nor as long. I welcome the subtle changes as Autumn is my favorite season – I live for the crisp morning air, the vibrant colors of nature adjusting for cooler weather on the horizon, and the sense that a new year is beginning, ripe with opportunity and promise. This may be a residual sentiment from those twenty-some odd years spent in the education circuit, but my heart knows no difference and I’m not going to tell it otherwise.

Regardless of my love for Fall, there is a bittersweet component to this change – summer fruit and vegetables won’t be with us for much longer, which is a sad reality indeed. In the face of such inevitable circumstance, what ought one to do? Preserve those summer flavors as best as your little kitchen fingers can handle.

I’ve desired an ice cream maker for years. As anyone who has known me longer than a few moments will tell you, “That woman likes her frozen desserts.” And I sure do and it’s been that way as long as I can remember. Ice cream, gelato, frozen yogurt, sorbet, and the list goes on and on and on. Naturally, as I developed a love of cooking the interest in making my own ensued. I have my dear friends, Julie and Tyler, to thank for making this dream a reality. They moved last year and upon the decision the ice cream maker didn’t make the cut for the trek across the country, they generously gave it to me. They will ever be recipients of my unrelenting gratitude.

My first attempt was a simple vanilla gelato, recipe courtesy of Heidi Swanson and her blog, 101 Cookbooks. After we gobbled that up, we tried the same recipe with blueberry puree. Although both delightful and worth making again, sorbet is so quick and easy to make, you get (almost) instant gratification that feels nearly sinful. I used the yellow watermelon from our CSA for my first batch. The subtle vanilla flavor mixed with a hint of lime juice is refreshing beyond belief. You take a bit and close your eyes, and suddenly you’re at a Fourth of July picnic in the park. It’s magical. I’ve made it my personal mission to make a a few batches to store away so I can enjoy the taste of fresh, juicy watermelon at my leisure – no spitting of seeds required.

Watermelon Sorbet

Slightly adapted from Eating Well

Ingredients

1/2 cup sugar (next time I will experiment by substituting this for 1/4 cup agave nectar)
3/4 cup water
6 cups watermelon chunks, (4-pound watermelon)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
a few mint leaves, optional

Combine sugar and water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature, about 45 minutes. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour.

Place watermelon and lime juice in a food processor; process until smooth. Set a sieve over a large bowl and press the puree through to remove tiny seeds. Whisk in the sugar syrup.

Cover bowl and place in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours. Pour mixture into pre-chilled sorbet maker container and follow the machine instructions from there. I found that mixing for 35-40 produced a nice texture, though still soft. I then put it in the freezer to harden up, but don’t be too hard on yourself if you eat it straight away. Serve with mint leaves.

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Peach Freezer Preserves

by Ashley on September 4, 2012

The fruit in our grocery stores leaves much to be desired. Consequently I’ve been getting most of our fruit at the farmer’s market. Peaches are in season and you can find them at nearly every stand on a Saturday. The peaches are sold small and large baskets, but lately we’ve opted for the larger for two reasons. The first being that the cost per pound is slightly less when bought in bulk and the peaches last long enough that we can eat them all. Secondly, the flavor of these peaches is to die for and we’re enjoying them as much as we can while they’re in season.

However, with our recent travel and moving I did find myself with a decent amount of very ripe peaches so I decided to make some jam to store away for a cold and blustery day when juicy peaches could only be a pigment of my imagination. Being that most of belongings are in a storage unit and we have only the bare bones in our kitchen, I did not have the necessary tools to make traditional jam. Freezer jam is the next best thing and it was so quick and easy I may be tempted to leave my canning pot in storage a little longer than planned. I did make one error in my jam which resulted in it not setting as well as I would have liked. I poured the juice-pectin mixture into a bowl of chopped peaches instead of the other way round. My jam is more like a thick syrup, but that is the beauty of homemade jam – even when it doesn’t set it is still a delicious topping on ice cream or mix-in with Greek yogurt. Simply stated, it’s like sunshine in a jar.

Peach Freezer Preserves

Adapted slightly from Eating Well

2 pounds ripe peaches, pitted and quartered (5-6 peaches)
1 3/4 cups unsweetened apple juice
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon freshly lemon juice
1 1.75-ounce package “no sugar needed” fruit pectin (regular pectin cannot be used as a substitute)
1 cup sugar

Coarsely pulse peaches in a food processor. Measure out 3 cups.

Place apple juice, lemon zest and juice in a pot large enough that you will be able to add the peaches later. Gradually whisk in pectin so that no lumps form. Continue to whisk until pectin is completely dissolved.

Place over medium-high heat and bring to a full rolling boil (a boil that cannot be “stirred down”), stirring frequently. Boil hard for 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Immediately stir in the chopped peaches into the pot. Stir vigorously for 1 minute. Stir in sugar to taste until dissolved.

Divide the jam among six 8-ounce canning jars, leaving at least 1/2 inch of space between the top of the jam and the top of the jar (this space allows the jam to expand as it freezes). Cover with lids and let the jam stand at room temperature until set, about 24 hours. Store in refrigerator or freezer until ready to use.

Refrigerated preserves will last up to three weeks while frozen will last up to a year. If you do freeze be sure to thaw in the refrigerator.

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